So I found an Arduino clone in my big box of junk here in the lab, and I thought I’d share it. It’s made by “taurino.cc” and at first glance it can be disregarded as another Chinese clone.
But wait, it doesn’t actually say “Arduino” anywhere on it. See for yourself:
Nor on the back:
Step forward – the “Taurino Power”
So what’s the deal? Well. It’s an “Arduino compatible” product produced for 3D printer enthusiasts, with the main change (or improvement in their words) an increase in the acceptable voltage range to 12-35V.
This is to allow the board to accept a RAMPS 1.4 3D printer shield. When configuring the RAMPS board to power the “Arduino” from its main power supply, a genuine Arduino or Genuino would work fine at 12V, since it can accept 7-20V.
BUT, and here’s the issue, many 3D printers which are fitted with a heated bed, are designed to operate at 24V. This would fry a ‘normal’ Arduino board in a very short time.
So, in order to reduce the system complexity and avoid a 12V regulator just to power the controller, the guys over at RepRapDiscount just designed an Arduino compatible board, with a different voltage regulator, and problem solved!
They called this the “Taurino Power”
So what is it?
However, What I have here is a “Taurino Classic” and that apparently is only designed to run from 12V – just like a genuine Arduino! So what’s it for? Is it a cheap clone or not? Their product description says in big red letters “This is not an Arduino clone”
Since the product descriptions of both the “Taurino Power” and “Taurino Classic” are the same, it’s even more confusing to me.
I know one thing for sure – If you’re building a 3D printer using RAMPS, and you’re running it at 24V – don’t set the thing to power the Arduino controller !
Just power it from the USB or the barrel jack and all will be fine 🙂
How can you tell?
Take a look at your RAMPS 1.4 board. If there is a diode in position “D1” …
…like this one – then your Arduino will be powered from the RAMPS board, and you need to be careful with your power supply. If you have a 24V main supply, to run a heated bed at this higher voltage, then you would be very wise to de-solder or just clip off this part, and accept that machine will need to be run from a PC.
If you really need to run gcode from an SD card, then you will need to provide a 7-12V power supply to the Arduino separately using its barrel jack input.